This will take a bit to flesh out, but I will be adding links for every keyboard I've used in a video. I will provide a small description of each in time, and will also add a switch and keycap list to not only keep track of but list and schedule upcoming reviews and mods.

I have 233 keyboard listed, but this is not exhaustive. It will be updated regularly.

(Last Update: 12/3/2024)

8Bit Retro [1]

Ajazz

Ajazz AC064 [1]

Ajazz AC067 [1]

Ajazz AC100 [1]

Ajazz AK35i V3 Max [1]

Ajazz AK873 (Wired) [1]

Ajazz AK873 (Wireless) [1]

Ajazz AK820 Pro [1]

Ajazz AK820 Max [1]

Ajazz AK870 [1]

Ajazz AKL680 [1]

Ajazz AKS068 [1]

chilkey

Akko

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FtmEGXq0JRU

Akko ACR Top 40  [1]

Akko 3084B Plus [1] [2]

Akko 5075 (BB) [1]

Akko 5075S [1] [2] [3] [4]

Akko 5087B ISO [1]

Akko ACR Pro 68 [1]

Akko MOD007 [1] [2] [3]

Akko MOD007v3 [1]

Akko MOD007B HE [1]

Akko MU01 [1]

Akko MU02 [1]

Akko JIN01 [1]

Akko PCB75V2 [1]

Aula

chilkeyAula F3068 [1]

Aula F75 Pro [1]

Aula Wind F87 [1]

Aula Wind F98 [1]

Azio Cascade75 [1]

Azio Cascade98 [1]

Bakeneko60 [1] [2]

Boyi TD21 [1]

Boyi TK96 [1]

Cheap65 / MW65 [1]

Chilkey ND75 [1]

Cidoo ABBM084 [1]

Cidoo V65 [1]

Cidoo x FinalKey V65 R2 [1]

CIY

CIY GAS67 [1] [2] [3] [4] [5] [6] [7] [8] [9] [10] [11]

CIY GAS67 3-Mode (Teamwolf LM67) [1]

CIY Tester68 [1] [2] [3] [4]

CIY Tester84 [1] [2] [3]

CIY Tester84 R2 [1] [2]

CIY X77 [1] [2] [3] [4]

Coolermaster CK721 [1]

Dierya T83 [1]

DNA65 [1] [2]

DOIO KB30-01 Macropad [1]

Drevo Gramr RGB [1]

Drop

Drop ALT [1] [2] [3]

chilkeyDrop CTRL

Drop CSTM80 [1]

Drop ENTR [1]

Drop Sense75 [1] [2]

Ducky One 3 Mini SF

Dukharo VN66 / TH66 [1]

DZ60RGB [1]

EasySMX KW75 [1]

Epomaker

Epomaker Eclair [1] [2]

Epomaker EK68 [1]

Epomaker EP84 [1] [2] [3] [4] [5]

Eyooso

Eyooso K620 TKL [1] [2] [3] [4] [5] [6]

Eyooso K630

Eyooso Z11 [1] [2] [3] [4]

Eyooso Z19 [1]

Eyooso Z88 (Super Scholar) [1] [2] [3]

Fancy Alice 66 [1]

Fancy Tech 081 / Ajazz AK816 Pro [1]

Feker

Feker Alice 80 [1] [2] [3] [4]

Feker IK65 / Eweadn C65 [1] [2]

Feker IK75 V3 [1] [2] [3] [4] [5]

Feker JJK21 [1]

Feker JJK84 [1]

Feker/Boyi IK87 [1]

FL Esports MK870 [1] [2]

FL Esports Q75 [1]

Gamakay

Gamnakay LK67 [1]

Gamakay TK68HE [1]

Gamakay TK75HE [1]

Gamakay TK75 Pro [1]

Gamakay TK75 [1]

Gamakay TK75SE [1]

GMMK Pro [1] [2] [3]

GoPolar GG86 [1]

Heavy Pare65 [1]

Hello Ganss HS75T [1]

HelloGanss HS98T Pro [1] [2]

HexGears Soda68 [1] [2] [3] [4]

HexGears X1 [1]

ilovbee i61 [1] [2]

ilovbee i87 [1]

iNKC65 [1]

Irok FE75 Pro [1]

Irok FE87 (CIY X77) [1]

James Donkey A3 [1] [2] [3]

James Donkey  S2 [1]

JRIS80 [1]

KBDCraft Kit Adam [1] [2]

KBDCraft 0110b [1]

KBDCraft Kit Lilith [1]  

KBDFans KBD67 Lite (R3) [1] [2] [3] [4]

KBDFans Tiger Lite [1] [2]

KeebMonkey

KBGM68 [1]

KBGM68 Pro [1] [2]

KBM68

Keebfront Vanguard65  [1]

Keebmonkey KBM1800 / James Donkey RS2 [1] [2] [3]

Keebmonkey KBMG68Pro [1]

Kchibo NJ63 Pro [1]

Kemove K68 [1] [2]

Keychron

Keychron C1 [1]

Keychron C3 Pro [1]

Keychron K14 [1]

Keychron K5 [1] [2]

Keychron K6 [1] [2] [3]

Keychron Q1 [1]

Keychron V1 [1] [2] [3] [4]

Keychron V2 [1] [2]

Keychron V3 [1]

Keychron V3 Max [1]

Keychron V4 [1] [2]

Keychron V5 [1] [2]

Keychron V7 [1]

Keydous

Keydous NJ68 Pro [1]

Keydous NJ80 [1] [2]

Keydous NJ81 [1]

Keydous NJ98 [1]

KiiBoom Phantom68 [1]

KiiBoom Vibe65 [1]

Kinetic Labs TG67v3 [1]

Klim Shift [1] [2] [3] [4]

Koori MK082 [1]

KPRepublic

KPRepublic BM40 [1] [2]

KPRepublic BM65RGB [1] [2] [3]

KPRepublic CSTC40RGB [1] [2]

KPRepublic CSTC75 [1]

Kzzi K75Pro [1]

Langtu GK102 [1]

Leobog K81 [1]

Leobog Hi75 [1]

Logo Yaksa Pro [1]

LTC NB831 [1]

LTC Neon75 [1]

Machenike K500F [1]

MagicRefiner/Ziyoulang K68 [1]

MagicRefiner M31 [1]

Marvo x ColorReco A75/S75 [1]

MatthewTech MK80 Max [1]

Megalodon Macro Pad 4 [1]

Megalodon Macro Pad Giant [1]

MelGeek Modern97 [1]

Mikit T80 [1]

MintCaps YQ84 [1] [2]

Mistel MD600 RGB [1]

MKC65 [1]

MMStudio Class80 R2 [1]

Momoka Zoo65 [1]

Monsgeek

Monsgeek M1 [1]

Monsgeek M1 [1] [2] [3]

Monsgeek M1W [1]

Monsgeek M2 [1] [2]

Monsgeek M3 [1] [2]

Monsgeek M3W [1]

Monsgeek M7W [1]

Mxrskey CK650 [1]

MyKeyClub MKC75 [1]

NextTime75 [1] [2]

NextTime X68 / Mr. Q 68 [1] [2]

NK87EE [1] [2] [3]

Npet

Npet K61 [1]

Npet K611 [1]

NPet K63 [1] [2]

NuPhy

NuPhy Air96 [1] [2] [3] [4] [5]

NuPhy Gem80 [1]

NuPhy Halo65 [1] [2] [3]

NuPhy Halo75 [1] [2]

NuPhy Halo96 [1]

NuPhy Tes68

Pulsar PCMK TKL [1]

Poseidon65 [1]

Ranked Nova n60 [1]

Redragon

Redragon K530 Pro [1] [2]

Redragon K530 Pro SE Silent [1]

Redragon Yama K550 [1]

Redragon K551 [1]

Redragon K552 (Rainbow) [1]

Redragon K596 [1]

Redragon K599 [1]

Redragon K617 Fizz [1] [2] [3] [4]

Redragon K617M HE [1]

Redragon K622 [1]

Redragon K628 [1]

Redragon K631 [1] [2] [3] [4]

Redragon K631 Pro [1]

Redragon K631 Pro SE [1] [2]

Redragon K641 Pro Shaco [1]

Redragon K644 Pro SE [1]

Redragon K648 Olaf [1]

Redragon K649 Elf [1]

Redragon K649 Elf Pro [1]

Redragon K652 Azure [1]

Redragon K656 Garen Pro [1]  [2]

Redragon K658 Pro Irelia [1]

Redragon K686 Max [1]

Redragon K673 Pro [1] [2]

Redragon Faye K685 Pro [1]

Redragon K686 Max [1]

Risophy Pro  PC395 [1]

Risophy PC404 [1]

RoyalAxe x ProtoArc R68 [1]

RoyalAxe x ProtoArc L75 [1]

RoyalAxe x ProtoArc L98 [1]

Royal Kludge

Royal Kludge RK F68 [1]

Royal Kludge H81 [1]

Royal Kludge M75 [1]

Royal Kludge RK100 Pro [1]

Royal Kludge RK61 [1]

Royal Kludge RK68 Plus [1]

Royal Kludge RK84 [1]

Royal Kludge RK84 Americano [1]

Royal Kludge RK87 [1]

Royal Kludge RK920 [1]

Royal Kludge RK96 [1]

Royal Kludge RK96 Forest Blue LE [1]

Royal Kludge S98 [1]

Sikakeyb SK1 Castle [1] [2]

Skyloong

Skyloong GK61 Pro QMK [1]

Skyloong GK75 [1] [2]

Skyloong GK87S [1] [2]

Skyloong GK87Pro  [1]

Skyloong GK980+ [1]

Skyloong NT68 [1]

Spigen ArcPlay [1]

Tacworks T3 [1] [2]

Tecware

Tecware Phantom [1]

Tecware Phantom+ [1]

Tecware Phantom+ Elite [1]

The Key Company

TKC Portico68 Black Label [1]

TKC Portico75 [1]

TOM680 / LK67 [1] [2] [3] [4] [5] [6] [7]

TOM980 [1]

Weikav Sugar65 [1]

Weikav WK870 [1]

WhiteFox Eclipse [1] [2]

WOBKey Rainy75 [1] [2]

Womier G75 Coffee [1]

Womier S-K71 [1]

Xtrfy (Cherry) K5 Compact RGB [1]

XVX L75 [1]

XVX M87 Pro [1]

Yunzii AL66 [1]

Yunzii RoyalAxe Y68 [1]

Yunzii X75 Pro [1]

Yunzii x Kzzi Z98 Pro [1]

Zepsody  Rehouse60 [1]

Zoom65v2 [1]

Zoom75 [1]

Zuoya GMK67 [1] [2] [3] [4] [5]

Zuoya  GMK67-S [1]

Zuoya GMK81 [1]

Zuoya GMK87 [1]

The one question that is asked the most on r/BudgetKeebs weekly question and answers thread has got to be "Which switch should I get?". In my opinion, there is no single "best" switch, and which switch people will like can differ with every person as it's a very subjective decision. In the past, when confronted with this question, my usual recommendation was to purchase a switch tester with individuals of switches that had read or heard in sound test so they could experience first hand, but that can still leave someone wanting a little more, to test  what it sounds and feels like to strike numerous keys at the same time or in a row.

This is where Milktooth comes in. They offer a service that I feel will be a perfect fit for some; for a $10 fee, you can pick ten different switches and receive a 4 switch tester loaded with (4) of each of the ten switches selected for testing at home, at your convenience and even in your own keyboard, for up to one business week. I personally found this to be a perfect way find which switches I am willing to invest in, and which ones I would have honestly regretted had I bought based on hype alone.

I've spoken with the owner several times while testing his service, and have also received the stamp of approval from a stalwart in the community, culminating in my determination that not only is this legitimate, but a service that I believe many will appreciate.

I made a video discussing my thoughts on the service in more detail.

Keep Calm and Keyboard On!

As the in-stock keyboard market gets better by the day, I keep seeing sales of keyboards I'm familiar with, sometimes at half or more off the MSRP from just last year. As such, I decided to pick one of these keyboards, the Redragon K530 Pro, a 60% three mode programmable keyboard that came at a time that Redragon began to pivot toward delivering better keyboards as it's one of the first models that I can recall from them that though they were odd little hot swap sockets, this keyboard fits basically any popular MX switch opening up a much wider selection than they offered in previous models, with either soldered on switches, or hot swap with Mill-Max style sockets that only worked with certain switches, and usually not the better ones. Though an exception, Gazzew switches worked and helped me turn some Eyooso boards into some well received gifts.

Taking this keyboard, I decided to go step by step, recording with a sound test after each change in order to capture, as much as possible, the change in tone and overall sound profile for each change made along the way. I then mix up switches and keycaps to further provide a range of tones that can be reached, on this keyboard with the mods I chose.

Stock, this keyboard has zero dampening, just a small "jelly" pad above the 3000 mAh battery, the PCB, the steel plate, and eight screws holding the entire thing together. And yes, the screws do go into plastic poles, but they are fairly thick and would be easy enough to melt some new metal screw inserts. I was thankfully able to avoid stripping any of them during the numerous times I opened the keyboard.

After recording a stock sound test, which includes a side of ping, I did the first and usually best first step to take on stock prebuilt keyboards, lube the switches. This Redragon was loaded with branded Brown switches that, if I had to guess, would say they were manufactured by Outemu, but I cannot say that for sure, it's just a guess. Using a homemade mix of Molykote and PAO, thanks to a friend, I use a squeeze dispenser to lube the back of the leaf spring and do a ring around the bottom outside of the spring to avoid getting any lube in the bottom housing's stem cavity. For most switches, this does the trick. I don't bother to lube the stems; if a switch is "scratchy", I actually like that, but have always noticed that that scratchiness always smooths out after a week or more of usage, I aim to rid any metallic dings and pings the stock switch might exhibit. While I was doing the switches, In figured it would be best to go ahead and do the band-aid mod the stabilizers to tighten up the tolerances as well as lubing the wires where it makes contact with the housing and stems. Once all of the switches were lubed, and the stabilizers attached,  I recorded another sound test.

The difference to me is quite palatable, but more can be done.

Next up I perform the PE foam mod but using poron switch pads as opposed to PE foam. Now, PE foam still is a viable mod, but due to the different thicknesses that PE foam can come in, one is never assured that the sound could be different due to misalignment, folding, and other factors. Personally, I find that using the bigger switch pads and applying them directly to the PCB, as opposed to trying to fish them in with the plate attached, allows for the easiest application. In my opinion, switch pads allow for a uniform application which should ensure tone similarity across the PCB. After the switch pads, I performed another sound test.

Once the switches, stabilizers, and pads are in place, the next logical mod would be the Tempest Tape mod. This mod acts as a low pass filter, hopefully capturing random high pitches and keeping them out of the final sound profile. Once applied, I assembled the K530 and recorded another sound test.

While I was first planning to do a silicone pour, I felt that the space was quite limited and I would have to do come "hacking" to ensure the silicone did not dry where the switches are, so I decided to go with a simple piece of felt. Felt while being thin, should act as a damper to catch higher pitched sounds due to it's open cell structure, so for the next mod, I cut and pressed a piece of black felt into place, closed up the keyboard, and performed another sound test.

Now I was curious to hear how the keyboard would sound with stock switches and aftermarket keycaps as well as vice a versa. For the first test, I removed the stock OEM shine through keycaps and replace them with a set of ABS doubleshot Cherry Dolch keycaps with a body wall width of 1.5 mm, and here is the sound test.

Afterwards, I replaced the switches with MMD Princess tactile switches with 60 g springs, restoring the OEM keycaps and performing another sound test.

Once this was done, I wondered what they keycaps and switches would sound like together as compared to the combinations I just tried, so I replaced the OEM keycaps with the double shot Dolch keycaps and proceeded to capture another sound test.

Now, I was planning to also change the color of the case for this project but I found that my home made paint box requires some maintenance before it could safely be used again, so for cosmetic purposes, I decided to remove the Redragon logo. Using ACETONE FREE nail polish remover - acetone will warp plastic, so I feel I need to emphasize that should one want to try this, please double check that you avoid using an acetone based remover, as it's likely to ruin the plastic. Using a Q-Tip with a small amount of polish remover, I try a small corner to ensure that it will remove without issue, then soak a cotton ball in the remover using it to remove the remaining parts of the logo.

Since that was merely a cosmetic change, I was curious to hear how Gateron Milky Yellow switches would sound in this configuration, so I replaced the MMD Princess switches with Milky Yellows, keeping the Dolch keycap set then I continued to capture another sound test.

Loving how the Milky Yellows sounded on this base, I decided to see what a uniform PBT keycap set would sound like, so I loaded up a trusty set of Milk and Honey XDA dye sub PBT keycaps, and as you may have already guessed, recorded another sound test.

Enjoying the sound of the thicker and lower keycaps, I decided to contrast them with a taller and ABS(ier) set, so I chose my Carbon DS ABS SA keys to load on this prebuilt and proceeded to capture how it sounded.

Enjoying the heavy "thud" that these delivered, I was suddenly reminded of Gazzew's U4Tx switches, which I quite enjoy and find, in my opinion anyways, to be very similar in sound and feel to Topre. Not the same mind you, but the way these switches perform, do truly bring a tinge of recognition. Seeing that it was pretty deep with the Milky Yellow switches, I could only surmise that the U4Tx switches would really turn of the "crunch", so I loaded a set of them up with the same SA keys and proceeded to have a "crunch" session.

Wow, that was certainly deep and "angry", and one of my favorite sound profiles, so I may go back to it, but before ending this, there was one thing that was bugging me, I never added a plate/PCB damper. Admittedly I have been skipping this step as of late since I find that without it many keyboards can express a deeper tone, but as I am trying to share all of the different sound profiles can be affected by different mods, I decided to go ahead and add one. Lately, many even affordably priced keyboards are including both PCB/Plate foam as well as case foam, but this one had none, hence the addition of the case felt. For the plate/PCB foam, I took a sheet of adhesive neoprene, cut a piece the size of the plate, took off the backing and attached it. Once attached, I used a detail knife to cut out the spots for the key switches and stabilizers. I decided to go with a set of Milky Top Yellow switches as well as a double shot PBT Cherry set from Gliging, Dark Olivia. Once complete, I did one final sound test.

I also did a quick super cut of all of the sound tests, one after the other.

I do hope that this has helped to demonstrate how different mods, switches, and keys all come together in concert to determine the final sound the keyboard will exhibit.

Feel free to jump on our Discord server if you have any questions and I'll do my best to help.

Here is a video I made of the entire process.

Until the next transmission, Keep Calm and Keyboard On!

Chatting on the BudgetKeebs Discord yesterday when someone shared a link to an out of stock Keychron C3 Pro; C3 Pro? I could not recall that being a model. Went to the site and noticed the fine print that said available exclusively at Amazon, I followed the link and there it was. A listing for a gasket mounted, wired QMK TKL from Keychron for only $35... $35!?!?! Was this a mistake? I quickly ordered checking a 5% coupon on my way to the cart.

Today it arrived. I wasn't exactly sure what to expect, but I certainly did not expect something this solid. Yes, it is not hot swappable and has stock Keychron switches (Both Keychron Brown or Red are available) that are not lubricated, and a gasket mounted steel plate, but despite this, it hardly pings, and sounds quite nice out of the box, something that I just do not expect at this price point.

I have many TKLs, and this one is high up on the list of stock usability, so much so that I'm typing on it at this very moment, and haven't a complaint. Now yes, I will be turning this into a project board and plan to desolder and either replace or add some MillMax sockets; the foundation is solid, I think that once the switches are out, it'll take minimal effort to turn this into a top tier keeb.

It does appear that this model has not yet entered the VIA code base, so one has to download the JSON file from Keychron in order to configure it using VIA. It also has yet to hit the QMK repo, but I'm sure it won't be long before they submit a pull request.

I must say, the mechanical keyboard market continues to get brighter everyday and I for one am enjoying the shine.

Keep Calm and Keyboard On!

Video Review:

Sound Test:

Today I had the opportunity to review this lovely TKL, thanks to MechKeys! This is only the second Aula keyboard that I've had a chance to review and they only continue to get better as I go. Gasket mounted PC plate, plenty of dampening, Leobog switches, and that PET sheet all come together to deliver what I feel is the nicest sounding and best feeling (prebuilt) TKLs I've reviewed to date!

This keyboard is available in multiple colorways, wired or wireless, with or without LEDs; the choices are plenty and are sure to fit many peoples needs; it certainly met mine!

Here is my complete review of this poppy TKL:

Here is just the sound test:

Link to keyboard: https://mechkeys.com/products/aula-f87-mechanical-keyboard

The MKC75 is a highly anticipated 75% mechanical keyboard from MyKeyClub, a renowned manufacturer known for producing high-quality keyboards like the Jris65 and the Jris75. This keyboard is the first in a series of MKC models which are aimed at delivering quality custom keyboard at affordable prices, making a “premium” keyboard more readily accessible to the masses. The Pre-Order sales for this keyboard goes between August 5th and August 31st. The Pre-order page covers most questions interested parties may have and can be found here: https://www.mykeyclub.com/pages/mkc75-preorder-page

Today I build and review a prototype of this 75% keyboard kit that will be available in seventeen colors, with four option for weights, four options for plates, including half-plates, though going plateless is an option as well, as well as four PCB options; soldered, Flexcut Hotswap, Non-Flexcut Hotswap, and a Tri-Mode Hotswap. The PCB I chose, non-Flexcut Hotswap, offers the option of three different mounting styles providing for differing levels of flex to better meet the end user’s bounciness preference. There is also the option to add a Brass PVD rotary knob or an LED backed badge or sign for the top right key slot. And, as a bonus, the hot swap versions offer numerous alternate layouts, including split spacebar, split backspace, Tsangan, stepped caps lock, and ISO! And of course, QMK/VIA out of the box, for the wired model.

Right off the bat, I must be honest. If you would have read me these specs without context, I would immediately assume that the keyboard being described to me would start at $300 and probably go up to $500 or more depending on options, and thankfully, when speaking of the MKC75, I would be way off. This keyboard starts at $99. Yes, you heard me right, $99, and the max price for a single unit without extras, $169 and that’s for the tri-mode version with a PVD weight! Small note, the weight I have with my prototype unit includes MKC’s cursive logo, based on feedback they’ve received, the final version will be blank forgoing their logo.

Parts included:

Full CNC Aluminum Top case *1

Full CNC Aluminum Bottom case*1

Weight (Anodized Alu Weight or Stainless steel PVD Weight) *1

Internal Alu Weight (Only for the Tri-mode Version Case) *1

Plate *1 (if selected)

PCB *1

iPXE PCB Sheet *1

Poron Case Foam *1

Poron Plate/PCB Foam *1

Type-C Daughterboard with JST Cable *1

PCB GAS Silicone Column *12

Plate GAS Silicone Sock *18

Top mount screw and spacer *12

PCB stabilizers o-ring *12

Footpad *6

Poron case strip *6

1.6mm hex key *1

Today I will be building the kit using all three mounting styles accompanied by sound tests to compare the differences.

Opening the box we find a plethora of baggies each with the different parts needed to build this lovely kit. The build I chose consists of a deep blue top, black bottom case, blue PVD weight, wired non-flexcut PCB, and an aluminum plate. I also have the knob which I will be installing in another video, as I plan to come back and mod it in the near future.

After inspecting the case components, I was unable to find a single mar; I feel comfortable in saying that this kit has excellent craftsmanship, especially considering the price. To be honest, I was expecting the other shoe to fall, but it never did. Minus one small issue I encountered, which we will get to shortly, I have no complaints about the MKC75; it’s truly a great keyboard kit at an affordable price, that offers such a breath of customization that I think  the majority of users would be able to find at least one combination that fits their preferences if not perfectly, then as close to it as possible.

So to get this build started, I open up it up by unscrewing the eight bolts holding the two halves together. Once opened I go ahead and install the six poron case strips that work as a force break mod, preventing the halves from striking each other with each keystroke. Afterwards, I went ahead and installed the four domed adhesive rubber feet to the bottom half.

For the first iteration, I chose to go with a plateless build, so after installing a set of Akko screw in stabilizers, I opened the bag that contained the gasket silicone columns, and installed ten of them to the PCB, sliding the notch that is in the center of each column into the half moon openings around the edges of the PCB. Now, for all of the iterative builds, I did use poron case sheet, as I know how metallic aluminum cases can get, and am just setting a base sound with as unneeded metallic tones.

With the gaskets mounted, I place the PCB vertically over the back edge of the case, centering it to easily plug in the JST connector. Now there has been some feedback regarding the placement of the connector which could lead to issues if it remained this way, but they have moved and redesigned the JST connector, so release units will not exhibit the issues I encountered, one being the cable curling below the PCB, forcing me to use a spudger to flatten it out.

For these first iterations, I chose original Kailh Creams as the switches. This set has been lubed and broken in on a 3D printed switch break-in machine for approximately 480,000 cycles; they are extremely smooth, and sound almost silky to my ear. Though I did replace the switches and keycaps for the final sound test I have to share at the ends of the video.

Once I checked that the stabilizers were working as expected, despite a slight tick on the space bar, which I intend to replace when I come back to this kit, I proceeded to install the switches on the PCB. Once fully loaded, I position the PCB, connect the daughterboard’s JST connector, and align the columns with their respective spots on the bottom half. Carefully installing the top half, I gently flip it over to screw it back together.

Once assembled, I decided to go with a set of YongQiu white on blue ABS keycaps, as they are fully doubleshot, with a 1.5 mm thickness and excellent kitting.

Happy with the build, I recorded a sound test.

For the next iteration, the only change was the inclusion of the iPXE PCB sheet, though during the process of unplugging the JST connector, I noticed a slight crack and when I pulled the connector, part of the plastic from the connector on the PCB broke off. In my opinion, this is partly due to the placement of the JST connector, which thankfully MKC has already addressed for the final build. Thankfully, the broken piece did not affect the connector working and staying connected, so I could continue with my iterations. Once I had the PCB sheet installed, I recorded another sound test.

For the next round, I decided to go ahead and incorporate the plate but doing a top mount, a rarely used mounting style, that I actually have a fondness for. The kit includes both screws and spacers for attaching the plate to the top half of the case, in this case I decided to forgo the spacers and luckily enough this did not affect the tolerances to a point that would affect the installation of the switches. With the top mount in place, I recorded another sound test.

For the final iteration in this video, I decided to go with the most popular mounting style, the reliable gasket mount. Removing the plate from the top case, I installed the gasket socks to each of the tabs of the aluminum plate. I also added the plate/PCB foam layer, before installing the plate, and reinstalling the switches and the keys, once finished, it was time for another sound test.

So for a final change of pace, instead of changing out foams or mounting styles, I decided to just pick some different switches and keycaps and see how different they sounded in a fully foamed gasket mount, so I chose a set of MMD Princess Tactile, 60g switches, and MT3 Dusk, one of my favorite keycaps profiles. And of course, I also recorded a sound test.

It’s too early for me too say which of these combinations is my favorite, though I liked them all in one respect or another, but I can say that there is a distinct difference in sound and feel between all of the different combinations, making this almost like a multiple keyboard in one kit. Almost beyond a custom keyboard, but a truly bespoke one.

Out of the hundreds of keyboards I have now built and reviewed, this one is a true stand out that I know I will be coming back to on several occasions, trying as many combinations as possible to find my perfect fit.

Thank you viewer for joining me today to build and sound test the prototype of this highly anticipated kit, that I would hardly be surprised if it does not end up being crowned one of the best keyboards of the year, budget or otherwise.

Purchase link on KFA: https://keebsforall.com/products/mkc75-keyboard-by-mykeyclub

Use code for 5% discount: MECHKEYBOARDS

Keep Calm and Keyboard On!

Yes, I have a thing with Keydous keyboards; I've not met one I did not like. Starting with the NJ80, I have enjoyed their designs thoroughly, previous to this, the NJ68 Pro, is one of the favorites of my collection.

Slap a screen and a knob on a keyboard and you've instantly gained my interest. But Keydous does not just hang their coat after adding these features, they make thought out decisions about other aspects of the keyboard aiming and striking a balance of features and comfort for the end user.

One item of note, the 1800 layout that Keydous chose to go with includes a full size right shift, making this keyboard instantly compatible with more keyboard sets, any which are meant for full size keyboards as some keycap sets do not include the kitting to cover a standard 1800 with the shorter Shift key.

Now, I'm not one that MUST have gasket mounted, I do like it, and if there is an option, I would prefer it, built I've plenty of trey mounted keyboards that I have no problem with. Up until today, the Keychron V5 has been my daily base keyboard, or the keyboard I go back to after daily driving a new one. This one is no different, though I am curious about the brass plate and would have requested it with it instead of steel. Despite this "limitation", the keyboard is so well padded and loaded with excellent stock switches (Kailh Box Taro Ice Cream Pro), that there is absolutely no ring or ping on keystrokes. Yes, I am currently typing this blog post on it as it arrived, bone stock. Yes, I do plan to mod and upgrade, the switches are nice, but a bit too light for my taste, and I'm sure that switch pads and Tempest mods will add more life and "pop" to each key stroke.

And yes, the customizable OLED, which can hold three different animations, is a cool feature, the standard display includes connection type, battery level, as well as a cute black cat. I would like to see some more features, like doing a customized GIF but also including battery, WPM, connection mode, OS, etc. and I do believe that Keydous is working on such upgrades, as each keyboard with a custom screen I have received have improved over the previous one.

One feature, that I almost missed is the built in calculator. By pressing Fn + Numpad Enter, the keyboard will go into a calculator mode allowing the numpad to act just like a calculator with the OLED providing the display. None of the input goes beyond the keyboard and I guess, if ever I'm without a PC, I can always flip it into wireless mode and have the sue of a full sized calculator!

The software is easy enough, though the latest version now includes a user uploaded section for custom light effects as well as screen GIFs. I already had a small collection of OLED animations and I am pretty simple when it comes to lights, set one color that compliments the keycaps and I'm good.

All in all, I've got to say, this is another home run from Keydous in my opinion, it's become my daily for the foreseeable future and I have already begun to hatch my plans for modifications, though if you have any ideas, I'd love to hear them.

Keep Calm and Keyboard On

For a few weeks now, I've been doing my best to refine my switch review format. With keyboards, there are a lot of specific features, or lack thereof, that will help to focus on the product as a whole, and how good, or bad it objectively is. Yes, a keyboard can have objectively bad features but still be subjectively liked, but a keyboard has a wealth of specifications that will land on the objective side of the equation. When it comes to switches though, besides the materials and the weight of the spring, all that is really left is one's own opinion. So, in an effort to not let perfect be the enemy of good, I'm starting my new switch review "format" and will adjust as needed.

MMD Princess Tactile Switch

First, the specs.

• 60g Tactile Switch
• Factory Lubricated
• 5 Pin (Thin pins, Outemu compatible)
• Operating Force: 60gf±5gf
• Tactile Force: 67gf±5gf
• Pre travel: 1.8mm±0.2mm
• Total Travel: 3.2mm±0.2mm
• 20.4mm two stage spring
• PC top housing
• PA66 bottom housing
• POM stem
• Weight: 1.7g

With the combination of a long pole stem that includes a distinctly pronounced bump and the two stage spring, this switch's actuation starts with a whisper of pre-travel that nearly instantly makes it's way into a large capital 'D' bump, before quickly dropping off the cliff to deliver a sharp and satisfying bottom out that pronounces a sure report of it's terminus, before snapping back to attention with a distinct "speed bump" on the way back up.

Personally, I love everything about this switch. The price, $0.23 a switch, the bump, the bottom out, the loudness; it checks all of my 'tactile' boxes.

Here is the complete review:

And the sound tests:

MMD Princess Linear Switch

First, the specs.

• 53g Linear Switch
• Factory Lubricated
• 5 Pin (Thin pins, Outemu compatible)
• Operating Force: 53gf±5gf
• Bottom Force: 61gf±5gf
• Pre travel: 1.8mm±0.2mm
• Total Travel: 3.2mm±0.2mm
• 20.4mm two stage spring
• PC top housing
• PA66 bottom housing
• POM stem
• Weight: 1.7g

Snappy! If I had to describe this switch in one word it would be 'snappy'. Between the short travel distance and the dual stage spring, the switch is swift to deliver a satisfying bottom out after an ever increasing spring weight that builds as the stroke races to the bottom, bounding back with a sure and motivated force finally finding it's resting place.

Not usually the biggest fan of linears, mind you, I do not dislike them, I just prefer tactile switches, but this one is one of those special ones. It most reminds me of a Black Cherry Pie frankenswitch, at least as far as the sharp and satisfying bottom out go. I intend to test this switch in various boards as I feel it will hit that 'marbles on glass' sound when mixed with the right materials.

Here is the complete review:

Just the sound tests:

The Akko PC75B Plus V2 is a 75% mechanical keyboard that features a hot-swappable North facing LED PCB, Bluetooth and 2.4G connectivity, though it does not have a "pocket" for the USB transceiver, as well as per key and side RGB. Bluetooth offers slots for three devices, allowing for a total of up to 4 devices including the dongle. It is available loaded with either Akko CS Crystal or White Wine switches and in a handful of colorway, all loaded with Akko ASA double shot keycaps.

The PC75B Plus V2 is made of a polycarbonate case and plate. The keyboard has a top-mount design, which helps to deliver a uniform sound profile. The keyboard also features a knob that can be used to control the volume or reprogrammed via Akko's Cloud driver software.

Overall, this is a well built, solid keyboard. The potentiometer knob is somewhat loose and I personally believe it should be a metal stem rather than plastic, but other than that, I found no issues and enjoy using this keyboard. If you want to know more, my video review is linked below.

Specifications:

3-Mode, Bluetooth 5.0 (3 slots), 2.4GHz, and USB-C
Polycarbonate semi-translucent case and PC plate
iPXE foam PCB sheet and silicone case dampener
North facing LED / 3 and 5 pin hot swap PCB
3000 mAh battery with a weight of 993 grams
Akko ASA double shot PBT keycaps with 25 extra novelty keys
Chin: 20mm    Back: 33mm  Typing Angle: 7°
First fold down legs: 40mm     Angle: 10°       
Last fold down legs: 48mm      Angle: 13°

KCKO!

Have you heard? I love switches. I make frankenswitches on an almost daily basis. I enjoy mixing different materials to hear and feel the difference between one combination and another. Switches are almost like an advanced Lego stage, where sometimes pieces won't work together so one's creativity has to remain within certain constraints.

Just recently, I came across Wuque Studios' Mix and Match switches, manufactured by JWK. This allows one to pick and choose between colors and materials in order to arrive at one of the thirty six possible combinations.

One can select from top housings:

Bottom housings:

Stems:

And springs:

I immediately got to picking parts and ended up with the following recipe for my Pastelito switch. Pastelito is comprised of a modified nylon top, a UHMWPE bottom housing, a UPE stem, and a 53g triple stage spring, and I must admit, I love it. It's a long pole with a snappy bottom out that is solid but not harsh. The stroke starts out feeling much lighter but gets heavier as one nears the end and the snap back is quick and decisive, ready to go.

The pastel colors are vivid and I'm reminded of those old butter mint candies that they used to have at the register of some restaurants; so with that I arrived at Pastelito, little pastry in Spanish.

The assembled switch came in weighing at only 1.3 grams, where as the majority of my other switches weigh 1.6 grams, and there was an exorbitant amount of trash left over, which left me wanting for something less wasteful, but the switch was not only fun to build, it delivered a nice experience and a pleasant sound signature.

Below find the video I made of building as well as several sound tests. I do hope you enjoy.

Keep Calm and Keyboard On

I make it pretty well known that TKLs will always remain my favorite layout, though I do love them all. A while back I reviewed the Boyi IK87, which at the time I was not aware, despite the obvious 'IK', that this was in fact the Feker IK87 which I had my eye on for some time. The other day I decided to see what it would sound like with some new switches and keycaps, and decided on using some iPXE switch pads along the way; I was hoping to get rid of the pinging that was quite significant as can be heard during the sound test.

After installing the switch pads, I decided to throw the Moon V2 switches, which I also previously reviewed along with the Whale PBT keycaps. I also chose a keycap set that I only recently came across and being a programmer, well, I had to get it. It's called Programmer Theme, they are dye sub Cherry PBT keycaps with a nice 1.5mm thick body.

I was pleasantly surprised with the feel and sound after such a minimal effort, I didn't even open it up! I plan to come back and do a full mod, as there will always be some tray mounted keyboards that I enjoy, but I'm happy with how it's sounding now. What do you think?

The KBDCraft Adam R2 is a custom keyboard that is sure to turn heads. It is made with high-quality materials and features a comfortable typing experience. The keyboard is also very customizable, so you can create the perfect keyboard to meet your needs.

In this blog entry, I will be providing a detailed review of the KBDCraft Adam R2. I will discuss the keyboard's build quality, typing experience, and customization options. I will also provide my overall thoughts on the keyboard.

Build Quality

The KBDCraft Adam R2 is built with high-quality materials. The case is made of aluminum, and the keycaps are made of PBT plastic. The keyboard also features a hot-swappable PCB, which means you can easily change out the switches to customize the feel of the keyboard. It includes a 64 key 60% hot swappable PCB and South facing LEDs.

The build quality of the KBDCraft Adam R2 is excellent. The keyboard feels solid and well-made. The keycaps are thick and durable, and the S² Engine switches are smooth and poppy. Overall, the build quality of the KBDCraft Adam R2 is one of its best features.

Typing Experience

The typing experience on the KBDCraft Adam R2 is excellent. The keyboard has a low profile, which makes it easy to type on, though some may prefer to angle it with stick on feet. The keycaps are also well-spaced, which helps to reduce finger fatigue.

I've personally used the KBDCraft Adam R2 with the Gazzew Boba U4T switches. These switches are tactile and have a nice, deep sound. They were very comfortable to type on, and I didn't experience any fatigue after typing for long periods of time.

Customization Options

The KBDCraft Adam R2 is very customizable. You can change the switches, the keycaps, the layout, and even the case. This makes it easy to create a keyboard that is perfect for your needs.

The stock keycaps are beautiful and well-made. They also have a nice, deep sound.

Overall, the KBDCraft Adam R2 is a very customizable keyboard. You can change almost every aspect of the keyboard to create the perfect keyboard for you.

Overall Thoughts

The KBDCraft Adam R2 is an excellent keyboard. It is well-built, has a comfortable typing experience, and is very customizable. I highly recommend the KBDCraft Adam R2 to anyone looking for a truly custom keyboard.

Pros:

• Unique and stylish
• Customizable
• Made with Lego compatible bricks

Cons:

• Flat typing angle.
• Only enough bricks to build the standard keyboard included, would be nice if it included some extra pieces to further customize without the need to buy Lego brick packs.

Here are some tips for building your own KBDcraft Kit Adam Grey keyboard:

• Choose the right colors and layout for your keyboard.
• Make sure you have all the necessary parts before you start building.
• Take your time and be patient.
• Most importantly, have fun!

Building your own KBDcraft Kit Adam Grey keyboard is a great way to get a unique and stylish keyboard. It is also a great way to learn about keyboards and how they work. If you are looking for a challenge, then building your own KBDcraft Kit Adam Grey keyboard is the perfect project for you.

Video Build and Review.

Not resting on their laurels after releasing the GK75, the first mechanical keyboard with hot swap sockets that accepted both knobs and switches, Skyloong has recently release the GK980 series of keyboards, in this review, I am taking a look at the Deep Blue CNC aluminum version, which usually sells barebone, but Skyloong loaded this up for this unit they sent me for review. It has Skyloong Glacier Rose switches, a heavy tactile (65g) that delivers a very "Holy" tactile event, and their own GK6 profile (1.3mm thick), doubleshot ABS Miami Night keycap set.

The 980+, the CNC'd aluminum top, ABS bottom starts @ $189, is available in Deep Blue and Gray, with the choice of PC or fiberglass plate, as well as wired or wireless connectivity, which brings the price to $199. They have a "bare" barebone ABS GK980 with a steel plate for $39.90 wired, $49.90 three mode. The basic kit, which does include knob modules, stabilizers, and the split spacebar is also available in either White or Black starting at $85.

Perhaps it's the combination of aluminum and ABS on the light gasket mount, or maybe it's the mix of Glacier Rose switches on top of the decently shaped GK6 caps, but this keyboard felt and sounded exceedingly good in it's stock form. I will admit though, for the price it's listed for, I was expecting a fully aluminum keyboard, not that this one isn't nice, it truly is, I just think it could be priced more competitively seeing as more and more prebuilts are coming truly ready to go out of the box.

Though the stabilizers are plate mounted and slightly loose, they performed quite well, in my opinion. The channel for the USB cable and the USB-C port sit pretty deep down the underside of the case and when plugged in, blocks the pocket for the 2.4G dongle, which is a Nordic Semiconductor. Configuration for this keyboard is available for both Mac and Windows operating systems.

What surely makes this keyboard stands out from the rest of the pack though are the hot swap knobs. For over a year now knobs have been all of the rage on mechanical keyboards and Skyloong decided to turn the volume up to eleven! This keyboard has six sockets that will accept either a 5 pin switch or a 4 pin POGO knob. These sockets are above the number pad (4), the Escape key, and the Del/F13. Now this one did come preloaded with four knobs which all matched, but there was two more in the box which had a different style. There was no note, but perhaps they sent me both styles of knob to review. 🤷

While the GK75 did have the ability to hot swap the knob and switches, this one requires a little more effort. In order to go from switch to knob or vice versa, first the case has to be disassembled starting with removing any knob attached. At this point I should clarify that the knob is actually made up of three pieces; the knob, which one turns, the knob mechanism that has the pins for the PCB, and the knob collar that holds everything together. Removing the knobs is not the easiest of tasks as they are quite well attached to the assembly and it took some budging and force with a wire keycap remover to take them all off. Once done, flipping over the keyboard and folding out the feet reveals two phillips head screws, which once removed allows the top frame to come right off. Then the collar either has to be screwed in with two tiny soft screws or removed, very carefully as to not strip the screw. I think I'm going to leave it at three knobs total, programmed for volume, scroll, and zoom, but will decide for certain when I come back to mod this keyboard.

Being that this is an aluminum keyboard, at least the top half, I was expecting the gasket mount to be more rigid but was happily surprised at how much flex it has, which I believe helps in the sound and feel of this keyboard stock. The Rose Glacier switch gave me a very Holy Panda "vibe" with a forceful yet rounded bump and a satisfying bottom out, which in my opinion, also attributes a good deal to the satisfying stock experience.

Typing on this keyboard is actually quite pleasant, the wireless functionality is a plus, though the 4000 mAh battery is not tiny, I feel like they could have gone bigger, especially when the latest IK75 comes with a 10,000 mAh. The LEDs are North facing and decently bright, the PC plate helps diffuse the lights so that they peek through from between the keys satisfying the RGB lover in me.

From the exploded view of this keyboard on Skyloong's website, the dampening layer between the plate and PCB, the o-ring gasket, also- serves as a "foam" mod, as the material extends to each corner of the switch sockets, and but its name would imply that it's a part of what provides that flex that's quite noticeable.

Overall, I like this keyboard; it doesn't just rely on it's highlight feature and delivers in practically every department. The primary complaint I would have is that in my opinion, the price tag is too high. Perhaps a year and a half a go, this price tag would have been more than fair for this unit of a keyboard, but sans the knobs, there are many comparable 1800 keyboards with significantly lower price tags. my only other complaint, though minor, I feel it still speaks as to the direction many of in the hobby would like to see software go, is the lack of even a choice of a QMK/VIA firmware. Skyloong has been making popular keyboards for some time now. As a leader in the keyboard manufacturing market, they should be leading the charge to open source software, newer companies like Monsgeek is doing, as are others; I think it's in Skyloong's interest to get in front of the curve and set the trend of offering alternative open source firmwares.

But what do I know?

Here is my review video, I am trying to come up with a new format for reviews and appreciate any and all feedback.

Link: https://skyloong.vip/collections/gk980

15% Off Code: #MechKeyboards

This morning I came across an article from XDA, These are the best budget mechanical keyboards you can buy in 2022, yes, that XDA. I've known XDA for years as a great place to go to when needing help to fix an issue or finding the process on how to root a particular mobile device, but keyboards? After reading this listicle, I thought that the title really should be changed to budget "gaming" mechanical keyboards, as the only true budget enthusiast board on this list, in my opinion, is the RK61. And while the Keychron^[1] boards on their list are "budget", I do not consider them "enthusiast" boards, for numerous reasons, but more due to the fact they seem to design their products primarily meant to be used with Apple hardware, when keyboards are and should remain OS agnostic.

But, as to not run off on a tangent, I decided to put together a list that hopefully more closely resembles what budget enthusiasts are truly looking for. The parameters are simple; the board must be below $100, in either kit or full form. I feel $100 is a good cut off point, but some models I list may be sold for a bit higher, depending on vendor or location, and options, so I'll do my best to keep all of this in mind. The boards must also include hot swap sockets. In today's day and age, adding hot swap sockets during manufacturing is a minimal added expense, and with a world of switches to play with, any manufacturer that skips this very basic feature, regardless of the MSRP of the board, screams "CHEAP!" and that keyboard becomes an instant pass from me. As is the case, I will not be including full kits, like the Mercutio, an awesome 40% kit that requires soldering everything from the resistors to the USB-C port, as it is a board intended for people who have experience with soldering or for those willing to learn, and requires more effort to build than the keyboard kits on this list. In this listicle, I will be focussing on boards that are ready to go, perhaps minus switches and keys, but can be modified and improved with little to no ease. So, without further ado, let's begin this journey.

BUDGET BOARDS

CIY TESTER68 / NUPHY TES68 / KEEBMONKEY KBM68

Seemingly out of nowhere, the Tester68 appeared sometime in 2021 as a board that could be bought from the manufacturer for as low as $10 in bulk, from what I have read, and has been purchased and customized by several retailers, including NuPhy and KeebMonkey, while it can also be found on AE/Amazon as the CIY Tester68. Now, this board is officially sold as a "switch tester" and is a wireless only, AAA battery powered board without LEDs, so if a wired connection and or backlights are a must, then you'll probably want to skip this board, otherwise, read on.

This board can be purchased online anywhere in the $15-$35 range, but even at this low of a price, it delivers a reasonable experience right out of the box. It is solidly built including 5 pin switch compatibility hot swap sockets, bottom case dampening foam, as well as a foam layer between the plate and PCB. It sports a steel plate and comes in a plethora of colors. The acoustic profile is on the deeper side with all of the dampeners in place and the stabs come pre-lubed and clipped and are quite solid for plate mounted stabilizers. It is equipped with a 2.4Ghz transmitter and also has Bluetooth (5.0) slots for two devices.

All variants of this board are designed using the standard 68 key, 65% layout, which means all keycaps sets should work, but it must include the 1.75u right shift key (If you have a 3D printer and are missing this size key, you can print your own using this file). The hotswap sockets are compatible with practically every MX type switch in production.

For the price, you really aren't going to find another keyboard with this build quality. Granted, this board would be much higher regarded if it did have a USB port, but that is something a few of our members on r/BudgetKeebs are currently looking into.

If you are just entering this hobby, I highly recommend starting with this board. It offers a great platform from which to try switches, keycaps, and assembling and disassembling, as well as learning about mechanical keyboards in general. This is a great starter board at an price point. Yes, starter board; if you get into this hobby, be prepared to own more than just one keyboard.

Don't say I didn't warn you.

Sound Test (KBM68) with Akko Starfish Switches

Sound Test (Tes68) with Tactile Frankenswitches

CIY TESTER84

Another great board from the same company that manufacturers the Tester68, is the Tester84. This board not only improves on the Tester68, with RGB LEDs and a compact, yet key rich 75% or compact TKL layout, but ups the game with an aluminum frame, and some of the best plate mounted stock stabilizers, making this an extremely solid board that weighs in at just over a pound and a half out of the box.

This board includes a "lock" feature, with an actual physical switch, as far as I can find this board has a "cousin" that has 3-mode capability, and that switch probably acts as an on off switch. This board also includes hardware dip switches, which to date, I've only seen on Ducky boards. These allow for hardware changing keys for Windows and Mac, Windows key lock, and other features. All in all, this is probably one of the most solid boards on this list, especially for the price (Amazon $63, AliExpress $48) ^[2].

The bottom sound dampener is made from a dark, made to fit, or perhaps even poured, black rubber silicone that is actually quite well taped to the bottom case, adding to that substantial feeling that this board delivers. It truly feels like I should have paid much more for this board based on how well it feels, sounds, and performs .

Complete Teardown, Rebuild, Review, and Sound Test of the CIY Tester84

Quick unboxing of the Tester84

KEYDOUS NJ80

Another quickly growing favorite amongst budget enthusiasts, first seen as the Keydous NJ80 and now also sold as the Epomaker TH80 (I have found Epomaker at the center of many of the Chinese keyboard manufacturers. I plan to do an in depth story as I gather more information). The NJ80 is a partially exploded 75% layout with a knob that was quickly coined the "budget GMMK Pro" as it sports an almost exact layout, missing only one key on the "TKL" column as well as not exploding out the arrow cluster, together with south facing LED PCB, while also one upping it by including three-mode functionality; USB-C, 2.4G, and Bluetooth (5.1).

This board is also quite well built with a top shroud held in place by two screws and several clips along the perimeter of both the bottom case and top housing, both of which are made out of a rigid plastic. Once the top is removed one is greeted by a plate and PCB combination that is held in place by pressure alone. There is a layer of dampening foam sandwiched between the plate and PCB. The PCB has JST connector cables for both the battery and the rotary encoder which are routed underneath an included black silicone rubber dampening sheet. The plate mount stabilizers are not top notch, but can easily be improved or replaced.

Flipping the board over we find it has two pairs of feet, providing for a total of three angles from which to choose when typing. This feature is especially handy for those that need to use a keyboard in multiple environments. We also find a snug spot to store the 2.4G transceiver as well as a physical slide switch to turn the board on or off.

This keyboard can be found on many online outlets ranging from $90 as a barebone kit with a steel plate, to well above $200 with switches, keycaps, and a brass plate. Truly a great board, built with layers of sound dampening, offering numerous connection options for a great base price.

Keydous NJ80 Review

DUKHARO 66

Next up is what I like to call the NJ80's little brother, the Dukharo 66, an semi-exploded  65% three mode board also with south facing RGB LEDs (The first row is north facing, but the remaining rows are south, so no concern of interference). The Dukharo 66 is built so similar to the NJ80, that it's practically the same case, minus the 2.4G transceiver slot, and the layout has just removed the function row and moved the rotary encoder to the where the delete key sits. Internally again, quite similar; a plate and PCB sandwiching foam, with a rubber silicone sheet dampener covering the battery and rotary encoder wires all held in place by the pressure and clips from the top shroud and bottom case.

Now this board does have one small caveat, which is important if you plan to use switches which do not have the LED "window"; the "1" key uses an LED that is taller than the PCB. This is most likely due to the design and the USB-C port being directly below it, so while not a manufacturing defect, I would consider it an engineering issue.  Despite this little niggle, which truly does not affect the performance of the board, some may find the lack of uniformity jarring, it still delivers an extremely solid experience out of the box, just like it's big "brother". Bluetooth and 2.4G both have fairly good range, compared to others I've tested. This is most likely due to the inclusion of Bluetooth 5.1, but I'm just guessing here.

One minor complaint I have with both of these boards is the on and off switch; it lacks legends for on and off (looking at it from the bottom, right is Off, left is On). It's very minor as if it's unplugged and charged, the lights will come on, but I'd prefer to be able to look and see. Also, like it's brother, the included plate mount stabilizers are not top notch, but can easily be improved by clipping the feet, lubing, and adding some band aid/medical tape where they snap into the plate. I don't personally recommend doing the holee mod (placing a small strip of band aid inside of the stabilizer stem), if the stabs are that bad, best to just buy a new set. Many vendors sell decent aftermarket stabilizers that will most likely come pre-clipped. I'm of the opinion that the holee mod adds too much material where there needs to be just the slightest of wiggle to make up and ensure tolerances have some space for any slight differences that may exist.

So if you are looking for a slim, well built 65% layout board with wireless connectivity and a knob, this is a damn fine choice that requires little modification to deliver a deep and enjoyable acoustic profile.

EPOMAKER EP84

And we now arrive at the Epomaker EP84, from a brand who has brought us many favorite budget boards over the last decade, Keycool. The EP84 is a compact 75% layout providing the arrow cluster as well as all of the functionality of a TKL, though some key functions are accessed via layers. This board is available in two models; wired (~$75) and three mode wireless (~$95) although the wireless version is much harder to find in stock nowadays. As an aside, the Royal Kludge RK84 (~$80) is readily available and quite similar to this board and includes 3-mode right out of the box. I do not own this board, hence its exclusion from this list. Unlike the "brothers" though, this board only includes one pair of pull down legs, providing only two typing angles from which to choose from.

This board is also built quite similarly to both the NJ80 and the Dukharo 66 as they have the PCB and plate with a sandwiched layer of felt foam between them, but only held in place by the pressure of the plastic top shroud and bottom housing when snapped together. Unlike the other boards I mention, this board is lacking any below case dampening material, and although not quite as hollow sounding as other boards, does benefit greatly from adding some dense or acoustic type of material to prevent ping and a hollow sound profile.

This board continues to remain popular due to its compact design, decent build quality, and reliability. Despite never having an Epomaker board die to date, I have read of them actually honoring their one year warranty on defective units, which is something that I do not take for granted when purchasing most budget boards, as the majority of these come from companies that are overseas, creating numerous logistic issues even just attempting to file a warranty claim, if they actually offer it.

This is one of the few budget boards that is actually ready to go out of box. I have yet to make any modifications to mine, though I do plan to, but with lubed switches and keycaps, it sounds and delivers a exceptional stock experience.

ROYAL KLUDGE RK100

Next up we have the Royal Kludge RK100, a 96% layout board with 3-mode connectivity, that includes a USB "hub" with two ports and dedicated indicator lights. This board comes in both RGB and single color backlit models for ~$80 at most online retailers, including Royal Kludge's own store. The model I purchased was the "classic" version, with a set of retro keycaps and a single blue-white backlight.

This keyboard is also one that delivers a usable experience stock. I've done only the most minimal of modifications, stabilizers clipped and lubed, and lubed switches (I replaced the stock Gateron Browns with Akko Jelly Blacks) and I can honestly say, that while it's not exceptional, it's more than good enough to be used as a daily driver. And while this keyboard does not include case foam, it has much less hollow space due to it's design. I'm also planning to do a fairly involved modification to make this board appear even more retro, including changing the color of the case.

The RK100 is, in my honest opinion, one of the best choice for folks looking to enter this hobby but still require the functionality of a 100% board, as many people rely on the number pad for daily use and will need time to start adjusting to a new, more compact layout, as is the case for most when switching to a keyboard with a differing layout.

DNA65

The DNA65 is a layered acrylic 65% partially exploded brass plate keyboard kit that can be purchased for ~$70. To be completely transparent, I found this kit on Amazon Warehouse (An Amazon "department" that sells open box and returned items at a significantly discounted prices) for $35, half its usual MSRP, so I may be a little less sensitive to the one caveat that this board has; The LEDs are slightly higher than the surface of the PCB meaning that you can only use switches with an opening for LEDs on their bottom housing.

With this one caveat out of the way, I really actually like this board. There are quite a few bad reviews out there, but I was willing to give it a chance, and I've haven't regretted it, this board delivers a nice experience, with only lubing the stabilizers and restacking the acrylic layers, though adding some thin neoprene strips between the layers does add a bit of a "gasket mount" like feel.

The DNA65 may not be for everyone, but it started me down the stacked acrylic path of which I now own three of, all which deliver what I can only describe as a thick "marble" like acoustic profile. The board sits at a slight angle with a screwed in acrylic "foot", which can be removed and used without the tilt, but I like the angle that the foot provides. Below you can find more details of the build quality and the sound profile of a mostly stock DNA65 keyboard.

I included this board in the list because I think that stacked acrylic boards tend to deliver a deeper sound profile close to what many have coined as "thock", although sound profiles can be quite a subjective topic.

DNA65 teardown, lubing stabilizers, reassembly, and sound test

DNA65 with Akko Jelly Black switches (stock) sound test

GMMK TKL KIT

I haven't really been a gamer since around the PS3 and Xbox 360 days, and as such I was not aware of Glorious as a company until I came across the GMMK Pro release. I later learned they had previously released a 65% (Compact), a Full Size, and a TKL "floating key" mechanical keyboard kits. Being a big fan of the TKL layout from the get go, when I came across the GMMK as an open box item for $42 ($80 MSRP) I just could not pass it up.

When this kit first arrived, I was surprised at the weight of it. I knew it came with a steel plate and a plastic case, so I expected something lighter than the 808 grams of weight it delivered in it's compact, yet solid frame.

This is another board which I have done only the most minimal of modifications to; lubed and tapped the base of the stabs, although they were fairly solid to begin with, and o-ringed the keys. I have used this board in this manner for a few weeks at a time. First with Akko Matcha Green switches and now with CIY Evo Red switches that have replacement 80g springs.  This kit delivers a solid and reliable experience with minimal effort and at a good price point, especially keeping in mind that this board still has room for further improvement.

One of my only complaints about this board is that it only has compatibility with 3 pin switches, meaning 5 pin switches must have their plastic legs clipped in order to be used in this board.

ROYAL KLUDGE RK61

The RK61, Royal Kludge's "clone" Anne Pro 2 board. If I held a poll of readers who have been in this hobby for any amount of time, I'd be willing to bet that the majority would check that they own or have owned the either the RK61 or RK68, the 65% version of this kit. This board is regarded as one of not only the first three mode connection offerings, but also one of the best rated budget boards, retailing for ~$50, but can be found during sales times for much, much lower, especially the wired only model. Regardless of the price range, this board does deliver, but like other boards in our hobby, truly shines after modifications.

While it's a perfectly usable board out of the box, "usable" is not exactly why we are in this hobby. Adding sound dampening, lubing, clipping and taping stabs, as well as adding some weight takes this board to its apex, making it difficult to distinguish this from other pricier boards. In my case, I used pennies and two part silicone to take the weight of the board up to 806 grams from it's default weight of 700g. I also foamed the plate to create a layer of dampening between it and the PCB, I then taped the back of the PCB with a layer of blue painters tape, making sure to make holes for the stand offs. I pour just enough silicone, any more and the USB-C port would not line up inside the case. The bottom of the RK61 is not cavernous but definitely benefits from adding a layer of dampening under the PCB.

If a 60% board is what you want, you owe it to yourself to give this board a go, it's well worth the price and has much potential just waiting to be brought out, but watch the videos below and decide for yourself.

RK61 Full Mod Video and Sound Test with Akko CS Ocean Blues

RK61 Sound Test with CIY Evo Reds

CIY X77

Now we come to another CIY offering, though one that is not in the Tester series, the X77. A TKL steel deck plate with a magnetic plastic top shroud and plastic bottom housing. This model comes in both black with a silver shroud and a black deck, as well as white with a white deck for ~$50.

Unlike the other CIY units on this list, this board, while decent out of the box, will need to be modified to reach it's true potential. Lacking any foam between the PCB and plate as well as sound dampening below the PCB. The plate mounted stabilizers are very decent, preclipped as well as prelubed, so require minimal work beyond perhaps just adding some medical tape to the point where they clip onto the plate for that extra bit of stability, though they are decently solid out of the box.

I've pretty much settled on two part silicone for filling the empty spaces on the bottom half of keyboard cases. After trying all of the different types of foam, I found that I prefer not only the deeper acoustic profile it provides, but also the extra weight. It's also, in my option, one of the most flexible, as it allows one to pour more evenly and get every single cavity that the bottom half may have, always ensuring to keep the silicone line at least 2-3 mm below the top of the post or more depending on the width of the pcb and plate.

This "kit" is one of my favorite budget TKLs. It includes 5 pin compatibility, has two pull down legs, providing for three typing angles, and includes a magnetic top housing which allows one to instantly change the look of the board, which I have had much fun with. I am also of the opinion that this board hands down beats Drop's ENTR, their entry level TKL. The CIY is better in numerous respects; two pairs of feet over one, RGB over single backlight, hot swap sockets over soldered, and despite the fact that the CIY has a plastic bottom, it weighs only 90 grams less than the Drop ^[5], making it feel much more substantial.

All in all, if you are set on a TKL, and the GMMK is a bit out of your budget, this board is an easy choice.

GAMAKAY LK67

Welcome now to one of the favorite boards on mine and many others' list, the Gamakay LK67, a board that can be found online from $60 and up. Yes, this board is sold by many different names, from numerous "different" companies, but they are all manufactured by Aflion as a white label board for numerous different brands. And while I have read online some people try and compare the different models (TOM680/TM680/TOM68) claiming to delineate one brand being better than another, what I have personally found, after building out and modifying over a dozen of these boards (As commissioned builds, I only own two myself), is that they do not seem to differ much at all from brand to brand, but I have found that there have been at least two revisions over the first one of these boards I ever received. Since the first unit, the revisions have not only improved upon the PCB quality, but have added a layer of foam between the plate and PCB, as well as significantly improved on the pre-installed plate mounted stabilizers. The latest revision can be distinguished by the color of the stabilizers; if they are any color other than black, the board they are attached to is the latest revision.

Although this board is commonly sold as a three mode connection board, it can also be found as a wired only model, which is much lighter than it's wireless counterpart primarily due to the lack of a battery. Although I don't often use wireless, I prefer this version over the wired only one. Regardless of model, this board still improves when it has been modified to fill the hollow space beneath, and again, I prefer to use two part silicone, not only for the sound profile in this board, but also to prevent blocking the LED diffuser windows for the underglow this versatile board offers.

This board has become extremely popular over the last year and a half, I would assume due to the layout, an exploded 65% with a potentiometer knob, and multiple connectivity options, but also for the fact that it is available in numerous colors besides just the standard white and black. From pink to teal and semi transparent to solid, there are quite a few colors this board is available in.

Pink and Purple Sunset commissioned LK67 build

ULTRA BUDGET BOARDS

NPET K63 (Soldered version of the Tester 68 without any acoustic dampening) ^[3]

At $17 from Amazon, the NPET K63 is about one of the cheapest boards you can find, not on sale. Although this board does not come with hot swap sockets, it can be somewhat modified before pulling out a soldering iron, but would truly shine once desoldered and fully modded. I am currently working on making a video of desoldering and taking this board to its peak level, but I did make a video of what can be done without desoldering, and despite not top level, it's actually quite good.

I feel like this keyboard is a great "pet" project for those looking to get into keyboards and modding but want to try things out on a board they would not suffer should something go wrong, as the initial investment is so minimal in comparison to practically all others.

How good can a soldered $17 keyboard from Amazon actually sound with a bit of work

Quick unboxing of the NPET K63

Eyooso Z11 ^[4]

While the last keyboard on this list, it's actually one of my personal favorites. Being one of the first boards I found that truly let me go loose and modify without the fear of ruining something much pricier. Normally listed for ~$20 for the single color backlit version, to ~$30 for the RGB backlit one, they regularly go on sale. I have purchased a handful of the single backlit models for $8.99. $9 for a mechanical keyboard with hotswap sockets?!?! Did I hit the lottery?

But even considering this board at its average sale price, it still delivers much more than one thinks it should; a standard 60% layout, with USB-C connectivity, on the side, a steel plate over a plastic bottom case, one pair of feet, for two angles of typing, and multiple LED effects. This board is perfect for anyone starting out in this hobby. So much so, that my high school aged teenagers are all sporting one of these boards with switches they've picked out, and at least assisted me during the modification process.

In my opinion, for the price and potential, this is one of the best boards from this list to get started with, especially if you are intending to go with Akko switches, as they make for an excellent combination and gives you a perfect platform from which to build upon to reach the board that satisfies that "itch"; and at $8.99 when on sale, one really cannot go wrong.

Sound comparison of a stock Z11 versus a modified one

Sound test of a modified Z11 on a table

In closing, I'd just love to share how much I am enjoying this hobby. I have been working in IT for the majority of my life, and as such, the keyboard is one of my primary tools. I bought my first mechanical board from a Kickstarter, the Disco TKL, a board developed in collaboration with Ducky and MechanicalKeyboards.com, with KBTalking Blue switches, and used it as my daily driver, without modifications, up until the beginning of the pandemic, when I really started to climb down into the rabbit hole. Since then I've only continued to dig further and further into this wonderful hobby, primarily focussing on modifying "budget" level boards aiming at bringing out the "keyboard hidden within". I've also started to dabble in frankeswitches; switches that are made from mixing of components from two or more switches.

I also started r/BudgetKeebs on Reddit last year to focus on more budget minded boards, as r/mk is more focussed on higher end kits. The subreddit is growing at a tremendous pace as more and more people find a sub showcasing many wonderful builds that did not require a small loan to build! I'm being hyperbolic, but only by just a bit; some beautiful renders I have seen are nearing $1K in price and won't ship for 1.5 years. While I can appreciate smaller creators coming together and using crowdfunding to cover the cost of bringing their dream to market, when an established company does this, they are in essence placing all of the "risk" onto the consumer. Unless it a commissioned product, I'm of the opinion that the business is the party that should be taking the risk bringing a product to market. An established company has access to loans and credit lines, and while farming suggestions from the community is more than welcome, they need to release in-stock products. Groupbuys should be a thing of the past, in my opinion. I can't think of another industry that requires the customers to pay up front before a single unit is even produced.

That said, this hobby has brought me much serenity and enjoyment. It actually has helped to lower my blood pressure as it provides me something that I can do with my hands, that while obviously requires some thought, it's in a completely different vein than my everyday world of coding logic. There is so much to enjoy with this hobby, for me anyways. I could endlessly try combinations of case materials, switches, keycaps, modifications, alternative methods of doing X, and ad infinitum. As my wife, who has also started to get into the hobby by making artisan keycaps and wrist rests, but wanting to move into keyboard mats next, is fond of saying, "It's like Lego for adults". Granted, I have friends who are still into Lego, I feel like her saying truly applies.

One thing you may have noticed missing from each keyboard entry is any mention about software. Some of these keyboards include their own version of the same closed source Chinese Windows based software that allows only for the most basic of customizations, some have no software at all and can only be controlled via keyboard shortcuts or DIP switches, but since I run Linux as my primary OS, unless the board is QMK/VIA compatible, I turn to Kmonad should I need to modify how my keyboard works with my workstation. If you've never heard of Kmonad, you really should just glance at the features it has, and it works with all major operating systems.

While this list is not comprehensive and does skip over budget "kits" that are out there, I wanted to "stick" as closely as possible to a list of budget mechanical boards that would be more better suited to folks just getting started, though it's by no ways limited to that audience. My primary intent is to provide enough information for readers to make an informed decision, whether just starting out or looking for a new board; an article that would have come in handy when I first started truly burrowing further down into the hobby. I hope that this article will assist others in further narrowing down their decisions. And if anyone is left with further questions, feel free to hop on over to our subreddit and ask a question, I'm sure myself or one of growing group of members would be more than happy to help.

Keep Calm and Keyboard On.

FOOTNOTES

^[1] Every Keychron board I've owned has had issues with Linux, and the only "support" they offer is a Facebook group. On a side note, even though I purchased my boards from Keychron directly, I joined the group to find help with an issue of my keyboard not working on PCs with encrypted partitions. No one was able to help, but after some digging I found that because Keychron basically reports as a Mac keyboard, there are some modules that the kernel needs to load prior to asking to unlock the encrypted partition, so I wrote up a fix, posted it on Github, and shared it on the group. Shortly after the "admin" banned me from the group, while also calling me some colorful words. Keychron support then offered me no solution.

^[2] None of my links are sponsored or affiliate links. I only provide links as examples, it is not an endorsement of any retailer or shop on said platform. But just a word of warning, AliExpress not only takes a long time to arrive, they at times send wrong, broken, or missing items, and the process of trying to get a refund from them is akin to dancing with insanity. They literally want a customer to pay $40+ to ship a defective or DOA item back to China that cost $38 without promise of reimbursement. Unless you trust your bank's credit card fraud dispute process, I highly recommend against using AliExpress if at all possible.

^[3] This board is sold for under $20 on Amazon and other sites, but to get the best experience out of it, you'd want to have at least some basic experience with soldering and desoldering.

^[4] While this is a great 60% board that sometimes goes on sale for as low as $9 on Amazon for the single color LED version, it uses Outemu MilMaxx style individual round standard PCB sockets, not like Kailh, Gateron, and other single piece hot swap sockets, which use more of an arm with two slot style sockets on each end and are the type used on the other boards in this list (Picture of socket differences). This means that only switches from certain brands will work (Akko, Outemu, Inyr, Aflion, Boba among others) with these sockets, primarily due to some manufacturers making one leg slightly wider than the other (Kailh, Gateron). Akko switches work fine with these boards and come in a variety of types and spring weights that are well worth taking a look. A good switch can be had without spending ~$1 per switch, despite what some may say.

^[5] If you are wondering why I have not included any Drop boards in this list, it is due to the fact that while I believe Drop boards are of budget quality (soldered, no dampening, poor stabilizers, etc.) they are sold at mid-range prices. While I do occasionally shop @ Drop and they do offer decent customer service, they sometimes carry and sell products for far more than they are worth and make decisions that, in my opinion anyways, are complete headscratchers.